Thai House Now in Northeast Jackson

Bliss! Thai House, one of the very few perks of living in the City of Dreams, has moved to a new location in Northeast Jackson … within a five minute drive of one particular Thai food-crazed writer’s home address.

Clyde and I visited Thai House for the first time fifteen years ago, not long after it opened in an abandoned Howard Johnson’s Restaurant. Things looked pretty bleak back then — think vinyl booths and tired formica — but owners Tim and Wat Bunniran compensated by serving up food so amazingly fresh and aromatic you’d think it was made with home-grown ingredients. (And, in fact, it was.)

Mama soon replaced the old decor with imported Thai fixtures, the old tables with hand-carved teakwood masterpieces, and the old floor with ceramic tile … and, suddenly, the place felt more like a place to go for chicken satay than hamburgers. A consistently spectacular kitchen, friendly service, and a generous and exotic lunch buffet quickly made Thai House a local favorite, despite its challenging location.

As of today, though, the old Thai House has become the new Thai House, housed in a sleek, understated, and very appealing re-fit of what used to be Moe’s Southwestern Grill just off I-55 North. Overhead spotlights shine down from the black suspended ceiling … exposed brick walls exude warmth and texture … rich earth tones and custom woodwork provide a comfortable showcase for the familiar teakwood tables … and the kitchen, I’m happy to report, is better than ever.

With zero advertising and no notice at all, today’s first lunch was packed with hungry locals; by 12:30, every parking space was taken, every table was full, and a line was forming at the door. But no worries: Tim, Wat, and son Toon had plenty of peanuty pad Thai, spicy larb gai (ground chicken with lime, mint, and chili), and the oh-so-delectable gai phat met mamuang himapan (or, more directly, the “cashew chicken with chilies”) on hand.

So now our “old faithful” is in new digs! As for me, I’m wondering how many pounds I’ll gain now that my favorite foods are just five minutes away … and being served in a setting that’s as relaxed and soothing as any Jackson has to offer.