We blew off the big boat excursions today, choosing instead to set off on our own, at our own pace. It was a great choice.
We snagged a train to Nice, made our way to the market, and spent the morning noshing on whatever little treats caught our eyes: the fresh-baked caramel macaroons, a handmade chocolate rocher (like those Ferro Roche candies in the states, but made with pure cane sugar and cocoa butter by a woman named Yvette), and a local delicacy — a chic pea crepe made in a huge flat pan over hot coals (served with lots of olive oil and pepper). After shopping for pillows in Galleries LaFayette (long story), we hopped on a train to Beaulieu, where we toured the Villa Kyrios, an homage to one archeologist’s obsession with all things Greek, and the over-the-top pink wedding cake of a mansion built by the Baronness de Rothchild. The gardens — there are eight of them — are a never-ending maze of stone, Japanese water features, zen installations, cactus and succulent arrangements, fountains, stone ornaments … you name it.
After that, we dined in the Baronness’ dining hall — a music box of a dining room with huge windows opening out onto sea views. Excellent lasagna, a good salad, and a delicious slice of chocolate cake … And then we caught the bus back to the port in Villefranche. Easy, fun, and relaxing — and we were so happy not to be following a crowd around, chasing a woman within numbered paddle!
Nice is Nice This Time of Year
We blew off the big boat excursions today, choosing instead to set off on our own, at our own pace. It was a great choice.
We snagged a train to Nice, made our way to the market, and spent the morning noshing on whatever little treats caught our eyes: the fresh-baked caramel macaroons, a handmade chocolate rocher (like those Ferro Roche candies in the states, but made with pure cane sugar and cocoa butter by a woman named Yvette), and a local delicacy — a chic pea crepe made in a huge flat pan over hot coals (served with lots of olive oil and pepper). After shopping for pillows in Galleries LaFayette (long story), we hopped on a train to Beaulieu, where we toured the Villa Kyrios, an homage to one archeologist’s obsession with all things Greek, and the over-the-top pink wedding cake of a mansion built by the Baronness de Rothchild. The gardens — there are eight of them — are a never-ending maze of stone, Japanese water features, zen installations, cactus and succulent arrangements, fountains, stone ornaments … you name it.
After that, we dined in the Baronness’ dining hall — a music box of a dining room with huge windows opening out onto sea views. Excellent lasagna, a good salad, and a delicious slice of chocolate cake … And then we caught the bus back to the port in Villefranche. Easy, fun, and relaxing — and we were so happy not to be following a crowd around, chasing a woman within numbered paddle!
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