In the end, we’ve just been too busy having fun to write or upload much, especially given the sl-o-o-w internet connection in our apartment here in downtown Lisbon.
But, even as we’re packing for the return trip home, I can tell you this: Lisbon is Europe’s overlooked jewel. No one talks about Portugal. Even the locals downplay its charms. But — and this is from someone pretty well traveled — Lisbon is second only to Bangkok in terms of great food, fine wine, exotic sights, and friendly locals. Why people aren’t streaming here in droves is beyond me.
Some highlights of the trip:
– That first lunch in Lisbon, part of our “Under the Castello” tour with Paolo of Lisbon Explorer. Paolo, our local guide, tells me that this little gourmet tour is the least-often purchased of any of the tours Lisbon Explorer offers … and that’s a shame. For us, this first lunch was the most memorable of many memorable meals in Portugal, giving everyone more olives, chorizo, presunto (a cured ham made from black Iberian pigs), local cheeses, and excellent wine than they could finish. If you go to Lisbon and don’t schedule this experience, you’ve cheated yourself.
– Lord Byron called the tiny, mysterious town of Sintra, Portugal, a “glorious Eden.” Every single member of our family was also taken in by its charms, particularly at the Quinta da Regaleira, a sprawling estate featuring a jaw-dropping neo-Gothic castle and fairyland gardens. The grounds are riddled with secret tunnels, hidden pools, and mystical chapels, but the most impressive edifice is the spiral staircase descending nine stories into the earth to hidden chambers once used by the Templars and Freemasons for initiatory rites.
– Exploring the Baixa district — where our apartment was conveniently located — was a joy. From the burned-out Carmo Church (still standing, roofless, now home to a spooky archeological museum) to our first dose of Ginja (the cough-syrup cherry-flavored liqueur best savored in a tiny cup sculpted from chocolate), our neighborhood in Lisbon was a constant source of surprise and delight.
– I’m glad I saw Fatima — the (highly commercialized, over-touristed) sight where three shepherd children claimed an apparition of the Virgin Mary appeared back in 1917. But our beach stroll in Nazare (where the fishermen’s wives still wear seven skirts — or all black, if they’ve lost a husband or son to the sea) and our visit to the Christmas market in the medieval town of Obidos were far more memorable.
– Lisbon’s small, family-owned restaurants serve up solid Portuguese fare at reasonable prices. With a little shopping, Googling, and consulting of TripAdvisor.com, you can find remarkable deals — like Pinoquio, where we had our New Year’s Eve dinner. The salted shrimp, the specialty of the house, come piled high on a platter, heads on, and are some of the best I’ve ever eaten. But the savory “beef picapau” with Pinoquio’s own signature hot sauce was the crown jewel of our table: tender beef, cooked in butter, lemon, and garlic and served with a basket of homemade potato chips.
Every member of our family had a fantastic time in Lisbon — and there are stories I can’t wait to tell you. Meantime: if you’re looking for a destination with a walkable old town, plenty of public transportation, dazzling sights, friendly locals, and more great food than anyone should devour in a single sitting … you need to put Lisbon on your list — before the word gets out!
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