Jackson’s Newest Mexican

UPDATE: El Sombrero, perhaps due to its terrible location and bad signage, has gone the way of all flesh. The Ridgeland location closed in late October of 2006; the Flowood location is still in business.

When the hankerin’ for chips, salsa, chicken tacos, and margaritas strikes, it’s been our habit to head over to El Portrillo (also known as “that Mexican place in what used to be Kenny Roger’s Roasters.”) The friendly staff recognizes us on sight, and, based on the number of hungry Mexicans lined up for burritos and quesadillas, the food must be pretty authentic.

On a lark, we visited Jackson’s newest Mexican restaurant, El Sombrero. Unless you’re looking for it, you won’t find it, because it’s hidden away in that new office center they’ve thrown up right in front of Northpark Mall on South Wheatley. (In other words, it’s right across the street from Cozumel, another Mexican joint, and Wal-Mart).

Take it from me: El Sombrero is worth looking for. In fact, the food, friendly staff, and atmosphere there are so good and so unique, I started to make the place my little secret.

Of course, because you’re in a Mexican restaurant in Jackson, MS, you get a bowl of chips and salsa upon arrival. Of course, because you’re in a Mexican restaurant in Jackson, MS, you get a spiral-bound laminated menu with more text than a short novel.

Resemblances to other Mexican restaurants in our area, though, stop there. Inside, El Sombrero is bright and airy, with a high ceiling and clever lighting. The massive room is finished out to look like the courtyard of a Mexican villa at night, complete with a gazebo and fountain.

The bilingual staff switches so smoothly between Spanish and English you’ll be saying, “Gracias” before you realize it. Our waiter was fast, friendly, and absolutely dedicated to keeping our drink glasses full and our dirty plates whisked away. (He was easy on the eyes, too — a fact not lost on a nearby table of appreciative local women.)

But the food — ah, the food. I’ve given up on ordering shrimp dishes at Mexican restaurants, because even the good folks at El Portrillo seem to be cooking with tiny, puny cocktail shrimp these days. Not so at El Sombrero! Clyde’s cammerones el diablo (shrimp in hot sauce) was bursting with fat, plump, fresh, “real” shrimp in a savory, spicy sauce.

I was in a nachos mood, and found myself tucking into a platter of hot, cheesy chips slathered with more guac and sour cream and lettuce and bean dip and ground beef and jalepeno peppers than you could shake a fork at. I’m eager to explore other options; next time, I’m getting what looked like an amazing skillet of shrimp fajitas.

In the mood for a little Mexican? You’ll find him — and some great food, too — at El Sombrero. Drop in and give the place a try.