Venice is easy to navigate. The city’s shaped like a whale; the Grand Canal runs into the mouth and out the tail end. Twisty passages and arched bridges lead off in all directions, opening occasionally onto lively squares. Tour books like to comfort nervous passengers by saying, “Because Venice is an island, you can’t get lost.” It would be more accurate to say “Because Venice is an island, once you do get lost — and you will — you won’t have to worry about winding up in Belgium.”
While tourists are indulging in manufactured experiences (like kitschy gondola rides), they’re missing the real sights and sounds of Venice. On our 90-minute walk from one end of the island to the other, we watched some of the island’s few remaining locals wrestle baby carriages up and over bridges. We saw neighborhood children roller skate down steep staircases. We peered into golden windows and watched families sit down to steaming dinners.
Our day in Venice was bright and clear, and photos from our walk showcase the crisp, sturdy light that drew so many painters to the island. As the sun set, palaces and churches were set ablaze with liquid gold. I’ve never seen anything quite like it.
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