After breakfast, we jump a train to Chartres.
We’ve been on a quick trip to Chartres before, giving ourselves just enough time to run uphill to the amazing cathedral and back to the station again. This time, we give ourselves the entire day.
Upon arrival, we’re drawn to the cathedral like a magnet … but we’re quickly sidetracked into a lively local market in the heart of the old town. We wander the cobblestone streets, sampling incredible freshly-baked chocolate and coconut macaroons and pausing for hot chocolate at one of the local cafes.
At noon, the cathedral clock strikes … and, like magic, the morning market disappears. Vendors take just minutes to toss fresh fish, meats, fruits, and vegetables into trucks; by twelve-fifteen, the lively shopping gives way to lanes of traffic and a parking lot.
Downtown and the town centre are still quite busy, and when we happen past a Atoutjeux (“All Games”), I spy a case of unusual Tarot decks in the front window. Minutes later, I’ve scored myself a copy of the companion book for my Tarot Symbolique Maconnique – one of my favorite decks – and discover my college French remains strong enough to allow me to read and enjoy the chapters on the deck’s hidden symbolism.
We enjoy bowls of onion soup, followed by chicken, andouille sausage, and fries at the tremendously friendly Le Pichet. The owner and I have a great little conversation in French; he thinks I’m from Canada, which I take as a tremendous compliment.
After, we take our time unraveling the story of the cathedral (the highly recommended English-language tour, we discover, has been cancelled for the day). With the help of Rick Steves’ excellent Paris 2005 guide, we find our way to dozens of features we missed in our previous, hurried tour.
After another stop for fresh bread and hot chocolate, we hop back on the train and return to Paris, where we have a great dinner at a local pizzaria we discovered during our first trip. There, we find ourselves in the middle of a group of drunken, kazoo-playing Scotsmen — in kilts, no less. It adds a whimsical touch to another great day.
Later, someone asks me if I’m one of the Scotsmen. I’ve got to get a kilt.
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